Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How do I know my order has been processed?
A. We will send you an order confirmation with an estimated delivery date. We will later email you informing you that you’re order has been sent on the date of posting, including the Special Delivery Reference number so that you can track the delivery of your parcel.

Q. What address do I use for my credit card?
A. Use the address that your card is registered to.

Q. Can I have the order delivered to a different address from the one on my card?
A. Yes - You can change the delivery address in your basket. Just complete the seperate "Delivery Address" section but please bear in mind that despatch / devlivery of the order may be delayed as we verify the delivery address.

Q. Can you ship overseas?
A. Yes - We will gladly post overseas using the Royal Mail ‘International signed for’ service at a cost of £7.95

Q. Can you deliver to the Republic of Ireland?
A. Yes – your jewellery will be posted via Royal Mail ‘International Signed For’ service at a cost of £7.95

Q. Can I be discrete as my order is a surprise gift for someone else?
A. Yes. Your order will come in an unmarked padded envelope (with the jewellery beautifully boxed inside). The parcel must be signed for and will have our return address on the reverse, but this will state AR Designs Ltd not Annika Rutlin, If this may still raise suspicion we suggest you have it delivered to an alternative address.

Q. My jewellery hasn’t arrived yet?
A. We will email you when your item(s) are dispatched and the parcel is then guaranteed by Royal Mail to be delivered before 1pm the following day. Check out our delivery info in our terms of trade for further details or if really worried phone us! 01273 583485

Q. Can you do a rush job?
A. Generally yes. It does depend on the item and time of year, but it is always worth checking as it may even be possible to despatch some items on the same day!

Q. I need help finding a gift!
A. At the top right hand side of the website you will find a gift assistant. Fill in the details requested on this link and we will contact you with suggestions that we think best match up with your requirements. Your request information will be thoughtfully considered by an expert jeweller and a response sent asap.

Q. I get an answer machine when I try to call?
A. Our business hours are Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm. We will endeavour to answer the phone whenever possible but we are a manufacturing workshop and are therefore sometimes unable to answer safely -we are probably torch or file in hand! Please leave a message including name and number and we will return your call asap, or alternatively email us info@annikarutlin.com

Q. Do you have a showroom I can visit?
A. No we do not have a retail area and do not hold stock as the work is made to order. Please check our stockists list. We have a fantastic range of Contemporary Jewellers stocking our work and would encourage you to support them by purchasing directly from any shop you visit. Jewellery is a tactile experience and their educated staff can help you choose the correct size and style to suite your needs.

Q. Can I buy at Wholesale?
A. Yes but only if you are a retail outlet. We do practise a vetting procedure and require references. Please contact us on 01273 583485 or info@annikarutlin.com and our Sales Development Manager will call to discuss.

Q. Why should I register and Login
A. By registering you enable the extra utilities such as the Wish List and the order history function. You will also be first to qualify for any offers or discounts. If you login as a wholesaler you will be able to view wholesale prices.

Q. I have forgotten my password?
A. No worries – When you log in please look for and click the "Forgot your Password link" and a reminder will be sent your registered email address.

Q. I have ordered the wrong size, can I exchange it?
A. Generally yes, though a charge will be levied on resizing rings and you will be charged postage. Please check our exchange policy for more info.

Q. Can I have the jewellery adapted or personalised?
A. Yes – as we manufacture the jewellery ourselves we have great, but please be aware that delivery times may be extended for non standard pieces. Simply contact us with your request using the design & commission form. Or email info@annikarutlin.com

Q. Can I have something made to my own design?
A. Yes. We would be excited to work with you to create something unique. Simply contact us with your request using the design & commission form. Or email info@annikarutlin.com

Q. Can I provide the gemstone / diamond
A. Yes but we will accept no responsibility for your stone, should it prove flawed or prone to damage during the manufacture process.

Q. Can you manufacture to European, US and mm sizings?
A. Yes! Please also check the ring size comparison lists if you feel this will help.

Q. Can I order in any other metals than those shown on the site e.g. 9ct or palladium.
A. Yes – We will quote you first and then proceed at your request. Please be aware that delivery times may be extended for non standard pieces.

Q. How can I be sure what metal my jewellery is made of?
A. All our work is tested and hallmarked by the London Assay Office. www.assayofficelondon.co.uk The hallmark states the makers mark, the metal type, the London Assay Office mark and the date tested. See our hallmark info for a more detailed explanation

Q. Where is the jewellery manufactured?
A. The vast majority of the work takes place at our own workshop. Any casting is undertaken externally by a couple of different UK based casting companies. We do source some machine made chain and findings from outside of the UK, notably from Italy, but try to keep as much UK based as possible.

Q. Is there any Nickel in your jewellery?
A. Whilst we cannot 100% guarantee that all our jewellery is totally nickel free we do our utmost to try to make it so. Our silver is 92.5% pure with a copper alloy and we use a Palladium alloy in our white gold jewellery as opposed to the cheaper Nickel alternative. All our work complies with the European Nickel Directive 94/27/EC. Platinum is recommended for those with highly sensitive skin as it is considered hypoallergenic.

Q. What is Nickel Silver?
A. Nickel Silver (also known as German Silver) is the generic name for any of a range of non-precious bright silvery-grey metal alloys, composed of copper, nickel and zinc. Despite its name it contains no silver. We do not use Nickel Silver. We only use Sterling Silver which is 92.5% pure silver.

Q. What is Rhodium plating and why is it used?
A. We support the ‘keep metals real’ campaign and believe in portraying metals realistically. White gold can have a slightly yellow tint, it is gold after all, and we appreciate this fact. The white colour is achieved by adding white alloys to the metal. For a more in depth explanation please check out our Gold Info. Often white gold is rhodium plated to give it a whiter more platinum like colour. You may prefer this colour or wish to match your new purchase to other Rhodium plated jewellery that you already own. It is a standard practise within the jewellery trade to plate. We therefore offer you the choice of with or without plating at the point of purchase.

Q. What different finishes are available?
A. All work is available in a satin matt finish or a polished finish

Q. Why has the surface finish on my ring changed over time?
A. Matt surfaces will gradually become more polished with wear, whilst polished surfaces will slowly become more matt. This is just general wear and tear and is unavoidable. Rematting can be done by gently brushing over the surface in one direction with a green scouring pad, or pumice powder on a toothbrush, but if you are worried about doing this yourself return your jewellery to us and we will refinish it for you. Regaining the high polished finish is slightly harder as it requires the small scratches from wear to be removed and this can only really be done properly by a professional jeweller. Shine can be regained using a silver dip solution, though this will strip the ‘naturally aged’ patina from your piece. Toothpaste on a very soft toothbrush can be used to remove tarnish on matt finished jewellery. This process is effective but can add very fine scratches to highly polished pieces unless a very soft brush is used. We are happy to refinish items for you, please email us for a quote; request@annikarutlin.com

Q. Why has my silver jewellery turned black?
A. Jewellery will naturally slowly tarnish over time, see our silver info guide for details on reasons why. The only form of sterling silver that will not tarnish is a plated form such as rhodium plated. The tarnishing process can be accelerated when the jewellery is in contact with skin, due to the acids exuded from the body and contact with other chemicals such as hairsprays, deodorants, perfumes and soaps. Stress and diet also appear to have an affect due to the release of toxins through the pores. Tarnishing is also exacerbated in hot or humid conditions, with textured and matt finishes being more prone to tarnishing and discolouration trapping moisture and chemicals more than highly polished surfaces. Toothpaste on a soft toothbrush can be a very effective everyday household product useful for brightening up tarnished jewellery but be careful as this can cause very fine lines from the brush if the bristles are not extremely soft. .......................................................................................................................................................................................... Silver info

Silver has been revered by countless civilizations for its innate beauty and intrinsic value. It is nearly white in colour, lustrous, soft and very flexible.
Used to make jewellery since ancient times it is now an essential component of modern life. Its unique properties make it one of the worlds most versatile and indispensable metals and it is utilised in an amazing array of areas from industrial to photographic purposes. This wonder metal acts as a biocide, killing bacteria, mildew and mould without harming people or the environment. Silver is used in textiles by clothing manufacturers to kill bacteria and keep clothes odour free, whilst bandage makers integrate silver into their products to stop the growth of germs in deep wounds.
More silver has been mined and used since the late 1700's than in all prior centuries combined, with almost 70% being a by-product of gold, copper, lead, and zinc mining whilst approx 20% of the world’s silver supply is from recycled materials, primarily, used photographic materials.

Classed as a noble or precious metal, silver is plastic (meaning it can be worked without rupture), malleable (it permits plastic deformation by compression hammering, rolling, and extrusion), and ductile (it permits plastic elongation without fracturing, as in wire drawing) and it is these properties, along side its ability to take and retain a stunning surface finish, that make it perfect for jewellery manufacture.

Silver is too soft in its pure form to be used for jewellery and is mixed (alloyed) with other metals to make it more durable.
Sterling silver, made of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% mix of other metals such as copper and zinc, is now the standard in many countries including the UK and has been since the 14th century.

Tarnish Perhaps this metal's most remarkable attribute is the way it ages. Sterling silver jewellery that is worn continually often develops a lovely patina, a kind of glow combined with darkened areas. It tends to oxidize easily and rapidly, reacting with hydrogen sulfide (H2S) in the air to form silver sulfide (Ag2S). This chemical reaction, known as tarnish, alters the natural colour of silver to a yellowish brass colour. The greater the amount of tarnish the darker the piece will go, eventually becoming black in colour. Silver will tarnish relatively quickly when it comes in contact with sulphur-containing compounds. These include food, especially eggs, mayonnaise, onions, fruit juices, tomatoes, vinegar, ketchup, salt, salty foods, butter, mustard, and tomato sauces. Other commonly found culprits are; rubber bands, latex gloves, wool, some plastics and paints, and fossil fuels. The rate of tarnish increases with the relative increase in humidity and rise in atmospheric temperature. Under such conditions, these substances interact, the atmospheric gas diffusing inward through the developing film, which causes the thickness of the layer of tarnish to grow. This chemical reaction can also be caused by reactions with sweat, hairsprays, deodorants, perfumes and soaps. Stress and diet also appear to have an affect due to the release of toxins through the pores.
The only form of sterling silver that will not tarnish is a plated form such as rhodium plated.

If you like the look, leave it alone. If you prefer a bright and shiny look, clean your pieces regularly or use polish to restore the jewellery to its original appearance. Make sure to dry your piece fully as moisture will exacerbate the tarnishing procedure.
A clean, soft polishing cloth will take care of your sterling silver whilst wearing your jewellery often helps prevent tarnish on the larger exposed surfaces. The simple practices of keeping your silver in an air tight container when not in use will reduce the amount of time you spend caring for your treasure.

Link to Silver Jewellery

Gold info

The word gold derives from the Old English word 'gelo' meaning yellow and its rarity is such that it is estimated that all the gold in the world that has ever been refined would form a single cube 20 m (66 ft) a side.
Used to mark and celebrate notable occassions and achievements gold represents the highest attainments in life; 1st place, Golden Wedding Anniversaries, Golden Globes etc, whilst portraying affluence and luxury.
Gold and jewellery are almost synonymous in people’s minds because of its over 6,000 year use for this purpose. An ancient symbolic connection with the sun, derived from its unique bright yellow colour when in a pure form, combined with its ability to take and retain a long-lasting lustre have made it the metal of the Gods for many ancient civilizations and prized for centuries. Chemically inactive when pure, it is almost incorruptible and will not oxidize in air or rust in water.
Gold is the most malleable and ductile of all metals a single gram of gold can be beaten into a sheet of one square meter, or an ounce into 300 square feet, whilst gold leaf can be made thin enough to become translucent. The transmitted light appears greenish blue, because gold strongly reflects yellow and red.

Gold in its pure state is too soft for practical purposes but is easily alloyed with other metals giving it greater durability whilst allowing it to retain its desirable qualities to a great extent. An alloy is a new metal mixture that's created by combining two or more different metals. The proportion of pure metal within the alloy will define the carat (the measurement for gold purity) of the metal and the number stamped when assayed:
100 % pure, marked 999, is classed as 24 carat gold
91.7 % pure, marked 917, is classed as 22 carat gold
75 % pure, marked 750, is classed as 18 carat gold
58.3 % pure, marked 583, is classed as 14 carat gold
37.5% pure, marked 375, is classed as 9 carat gold
The word ‘carat’ comes from ‘carob’; carob seeds were originally used to balance scales in Oriental bazaars.
The type of alloy used will also determine the colour and strength of colour of the gold. The lower the carat of the gold, the higher the percentage of alloy and therefore the paler the yellow colour of the gold or the stronger the alternative colour, as the bright yellow colour of the pure gold becomes increasingly diluted.
Gold can therefore be made in various alternative colours
White Gold can be created by using nickel to create a white (or grey) colour, although this can cause dermatitis or skin problems in people who are sensitive to nickel. Many cheaper, imported, white gold jewellery items are made using this alloy, we do not use it.
The alternative to this, and the one we do use, is a Palladium alloy. Related to platinum, it is more expensive than nickel, but is less likely to cause allergic reactions and exudes a superior colour.
Rose & Pink Golds are created by adding Copper, whilst adding silver to gold creates Greenish shades.


Link to Gold Jewellery

Platinum info

Platinum is a simply beautiful, incredibly ductile and malleable metal. It is so rare that if all the platinum in the world were poured into an Olympic swimming pool it would barely cover your ankles and is actually 30 times rarer than gold.

All our gold designs are available in Platinum.
We are happy to adapt silver designs, though we recommend a scaling down in weight. Platinum is much denser metal, at over twice the weight of silver, and considerably greater in cost per gram. It also visually looks ‘heavier’, so a silver design directly translated will not only be vastly more expensive but may also appear bulky.

Platinum's density and weight make it more durable than other jewellery metals. A 15 cm (six-inch) cube of platinum weighs 165 lbs (75 kg), the same as an average man.

All precious metals will scratch but when platinum is scratched the metal is merely displaced and very little metal is lost, which means it maintains its volume and value over the years.

Platinum in its pure state is actually very soft. It cannot be used for jewellery in this form and is therefore alloyed in order to give it hardness. Not all Platinum jewellery available from around the world is the same high quality or purity and can be made using inferior alloys which can make the metal porous or brittle. Tested and Hallmarked by the London Assay Office, all our Platinum jewellery is 95% pure platinum, the UK standard, using high quality alloys and as such it does not fade or tarnish.

This high purity makes it hypoallergenic and therefore ideal for those with sensitive skin.

This also means you are getting more of the precious metal for your money compared to gold which, for example, at 18ct is only 75% pure.

A Platinum piece will weigh approximately 1.6 times that of an 18 carat gold piece and it is these differences in purity, density and greater gram price that account for the higher cost of platinum jewellery whilst it is widely recognised that platinum jewellery manufacture usually requires a higher level of craftsmanship.

The look of Platinum states glamour and prestige, whilst the glorious white lustre of the metal, reflects the true brilliance of diamonds and thus provides the best setting for precious jewels.

Link to Platinum Jewellery

Recycling:

We are fervent believers in recycling and are pleased to offer you the option of recycling old, unwanted or tired jewellery. There are generally 3 options available (but not necessarily all possible depending on the condition and quality of the item.

1.Pieces can be slightly reworked to freshen them up, alter their appearance or simply be mended. You may wish the surface to be refinished or altered by various means, such as hammering or removing a surface texture for example, or the length of an item altered etc.
2.The piece can be dismantled and reassembled into other items, eg a necklace shortened and the extra length converted to earrings etc
3.The whole piece melted down and the metal, metal value and/ or stones put towards a brand new design, either from one of our ranges or a specially commissioned piece.

We will be happy to advise you on possibilities.

Please check out our rejuvenation service for more info.

Hallmarking

The UK hallmark is an official mark stamped on jewellery showing that its quality conforms to legal standards.
Our work is tested and hallmarked externally by the London Assay Office, so you can always be confident that the jewellery you are purchasing is as advertised.
The UK hallmark that you see on our work consists of the following format:

1. Makers Mark – Our mark is a triangle with the initials AR
2. Metal Mark – Emblem representing the type of metal. In this example the lion represents Sterling Silver
3. The Millesimal Fineness Mark- This is the number of parts per thousand of pure metal in the alloy.
In this example the 925 represents 92.5% pure silver which equates to Sterling Silver 4. Assay Office Mark – This represents the Assay Office at which the piece was tested and marked. We use the London Assay Office symbolized by a lion’s head.
5. Date Mark – representing the year in which the item was tested and hallmarked.

Set out below are the different metal marks used for the different metal carats in the British Hallmark

The UK has Four Assay Offices represented by the following marks:

We use the London Assay Office and so you will see the lion head mark on our work.
For more information on British Hallmarking please visit: www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/assayoffice

Diamonds

Carat – Cut – Colour - Clarity – Shapes & Sizes – Conflict diamonds

A precious stone of pure carbon, formed under high temperatures and pressure 50 miles or more underground, diamond is the hardest known naturally occurring substance.

We have set an uncompromising standard with our diamond set jewellery. For all our ranges we insist on using diamonds that are exceptionally well cut, of Flawless to VS1 clarity, and D to H colour. Even our silver jewellery is only set with VS1 G/H colour diamonds.

A diamond’s quality is defined by 4 parameters; carat, cut, clarity, and colour.

Carat A diamond’s weight is expressed in carats and points of a carat; one carat being 100 points. A diamond weighing 50 points weighs 0.50 carats. 1 carat equals 0.2 gr.
It is very easy to measure the size and carat weight of a diamond but this is not the sole factor determining its value. Two diamonds of equal size and weight can vary drastically in value depending on the cut, colour and clarity.
For examples of carat to size guides please refer to the shape and size charts.

Cut A diamond's shape should not be confused with its cut. Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the diamond, such as round brilliant, princess, oval, etc (see listings below) whereas a stone's cut alludes to the diamond's reflective qualities. It is very important for a stone to be well cut because it is the cut that is responsible for the amount of light reflected back to the viewer's eyes, and thus the quality of the diamonds famous sparkle.

Knowledge of the anatomy of a diamond will help in understanding the important characteristics to look for in a cut;

Crown: The top portion of a diamond, from the girdle to the table.
Culet: The culet is the smallest facet at the bottom of a full-cut diamond. All of the cut facets of the pavilion meet at a point to form the culet. It is ideal to have a culet which is 'small', 'very small', or 'medium'. If the culet is 'large' or 'very large' it may be visible with the naked eye. When there is no culet, the bottom of the stone will chip easily. Depth: The height of a diamond, measured from the culet to the table.
Diameter: The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle. Primarily, the Diameter gives you an idea of the diamond's physical size, but it is also used as point of comparison to calculate the diamond's table percentage, total depth percentage, crown height, and pavilion depth.
Facet: The flat, smooth faces of a diamond, cut from the raw crystal.
Girdle: The girdle is the outer edge of a diamond which forms a band around the stone between the crown and pavilion. Ideally this should be balanced and 'medium'. 'Thick' girdles may use unnecessary weight
Pavilion: The bottom part of a diamond, from the girdle to the culet.
Table: The flat facet on the top of the diamond, it is the largest facet of a gemstone.

Beautiful diamonds have proportions that minimize the amount of light that is lost through the bottom of the stone, returning as much light as possible back to the eye in a nice balance of white light (brilliance) and spectral colours (fire). The angles and finish of any diamond are what determine its ability to handle light, and subsequently leads to its brilliance, whilst the fire of a diamond is in reference to the evenness of light dispersion within the stone. The fire and brilliance, therefore, are prime factors in determining the diamond's beauty.

Brilliance Fire

The most common cut of diamond has 58 facets, placed at precise angles in relation to each other. This is done to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond and to increase its sparkle. This balance results in a stone with high scintillation and thus well cut diamonds are more valuable and more desirable than darker, poorly cut stones. Well proportioned stones reflect more light, and therefore often appear whiter and brighter than poorly proportioned stones. A well cut diamond can look 2 or 3 colour grades better than it actually is. Similarly, diamonds in perfect proportion may also look better than other badly cut diamonds of higher clarity.

If the proportions of a brilliant cut diamond depart markedly from the ideal proportions, then the light will escape through the pavilion facets instead of being reflected back through the crown

Too Shallow and light escapes through the pavilion before it can be reflected causing the diamond to lose brilliance. Stones that are too shallow can also display a dark ring around the culet when viewed from the top. Such stones are described as ‘laxey’ or ‘fish-eye’ stones
Diamonds which "spread" more than their weight (ie. the diameter is too great in relation to the depth of the stone) often appeal to the less well informed who feel they are getting a larger looking stone for their money, but a spread stone will lack brilliance.
Too Deep and light escapes through the opposite side of the pavilion causing the diamond to appear dark and dull. .

Diamond Polish The polish grade describes the smoothness of the diamond's facets once it has been cut. A diamond is given a grade for its finish, from poor to excellent. The polish is very important, because a good polish can enhance the stone’s fire and brilliance. It takes a trained eye to differentiate between the different grades. .

­ Image A is an eye clean diamond with excellent polish, whilst image B shows polish lines from the cutting process, blurring the surface of the diamond and therefore causing dulled sparkle

Diamond Symmetry The symmetry grade refers to alignment of the facets. With poor symmetry, light can be misdirected as it enters and exits the diamond.
A diamond is given a symmetry grade for its overall cut uniformity. The symmetry grade can go from poor to excellent. Poor symmetry will decrease a diamond’s sparkle and fire, because the light is leaking from the stone. For the most beautiful diamond, look for a symmetry grade of excellent (EX), very good (VG), or good (G) for a GIA graded diamond

Image A shows a diamond with excellent symmetry, exact shape and arrangement of facets whilst image B shows a diamond with misshapen facets.

Colour Diamonds are found in nature in a wide range of colours, from completely colourless (the most desirable trait) to slightly yellow & brown. It is the colourless or white diamonds that, just as a prism, allows light to pass effortlessly through and be broken into a rainbow of colours and it is this reflected colour that makes a diamond more desirable.

More intensely coloured diamonds, like yellow, green or blue are called fancy diamonds. Only one out of 10,000 natural diamonds are considered to be a fancy coloured diamond, with red being the rarest, and making fancy colours extremely rare and extremely valuable. These are not graded on the same scale.
Black, or Carbonado, diamonds are not truly black, but rather contain numerous dark inclusions that give the gems their dark appearance. Unnatural coloured diamond can of course be created or enhanced by various treatments.

A diamond's colour is ascertained by looking at it under controlled lighting and comparison to the Gemological Institute of America's (GIA) colour scale which was introduced in the late 1950’s.Grading is based on a set of pre-graded diamonds which have been calibrated to the exact colour of every-other colour ,usually E-G-I-J, known as a Master Colour Diamond Set.
The separation between grades is almost undetectable to the untrained eye. An analogy would be five pieces of white paper of differing qualities. When looked at individually they are all look white, but if placed side by side the distinction can be made. It is difficult to see the subtle differences between one colour grade to the next but these differences become increasingly more apparent the greater the difference in grade between the diamonds being compared
The colour of a diamond is most accurately determined when it is not mounted in a setting as settings can introduce tints of their own colour reflected into the diamond. The diamond's high brilliance and dispersion of light also means the colour grade cannot be accurately determined by looking at the stone from the top (face up) position and it is advisable to observe colour by examining the stone through the side of the pavilion (bottom of the stone) with the diamond upside down in a white paper grading trough. Even a trained professional can't always tell the difference between close grades of colour in a diamond if it is still mounted in a setting.
The Diamond grading system for Colour as represented in the diamond colour chart below uses the letters of the alphabet from D through Z. 'D' represents the most colourless and therefore the rarest and most valuable and "Z' having the most colour within the normal range, being the least valuable.

Clarity Diamond clarity relates to the existence and visual appearance of internal characteristics of a diamond called inclusions, and surface defects called blemishes. It is extremely rare for a diamond to be entirely flawless, often having trace minerals, pockets of air or non diamond material inside or on the surface of the diamond. A cluster of very small internal inclusions are referred to as a cloud. Tiny clouds will not interfere with the stone’s brilliance, but a cluster of clouds will. The clarity scale was developed to have a universal rating system of diamond imperfections.
Flawless diamonds show no inclusions or blemishes, whilst in SI-3 clarity diamonds (or lower quality) the inclusions can be seen with the naked eye. Diamonds with a SI-1 grade or better are usually eye-clean, ie. flawless to the naked eye, meaning it has no visible inclusions.

FL - Flawless; Free from all inclusions or blemishes, at 10x magnification.
IF - Flawless; No inclusions visible at 10x; insignificant surface blemishes only.
VVS1 – Very Very Small inclusion 1 - Minute inclusions that are extremely difficult to see at 10x.
VVS2 – Very Very Small inclusion 2. - Tiny inclusions, only visible under a x10 magnifying glass to the trained eye
VS1 – Very Small Inclusion 1 - Minor inclusions, difficult to see at 10x
VS2 – Very Small Inclusion 2 - Minor inclusions, somewhat easy to see face up at 10x
SI1 – Small Inclusions 1 - Noticeable inclusions, easy to see at 10x, but not visible to the unaided eye
SI2 – Small Inclusions 2 - Noticeable inclusions, very easy to see at 10x and may be visible through the pavilion.
I1 – Small Inclusions 1 - Obvious inclusions at 10x and visible to the unaided eye.
I2 – Included 2 - Obvious inclusions at 10x and easily visible to the unaided eye and have an effect on the brilliance.
I3 – Included 3 - Prominent inclusions, extremely easy to see with unaided eye; The brilliance is decreased & usually affects durability ie. it can break or chip easily. Borderline Industrial Grade.


Shapes & Sizes ______IMAGES MISSING___________

Brilliant cut diamonds

Also known as the Round Cut, American Ideal Cut, or American Standard Cut.
This is the traditional and by far the most popular diamond shape. Its 57 facets catch the light beautifully and it is designed to provide maximum optics for the brilliance and scintillation.

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
1	0.005	0.5		4.8	0.4	40
1.3	0.01	1		5	0.5	50
1.5	0.015	1.5		5.4	0.6	60
1.7	0.02	1		5.5	0.63	63
1.8	0.025	2.5		5.6	0.65	65
2	0.03	3		6	0.75	75
2.1	0.035	3.5		6.4	0.95	95
2.2	0.04	4		6.6	1	100
2.4	0.05	5		6.8	1.17	117
2.5	0.06	6		7	1.25	125
2.7	0.07	7		7.2	1.33	133
2.8	0.08	8		7.5	1.55	155
2.9	0.09	9		7.8	1.75	175
3	0.1	10		8	2	200
3.1	0.11	11		8.4	2.15	215
3.2	0.12	12		8.6	2.25	225
3.3	0.14	14		9	2.75	275
3.4	0.15	15		9.4	3	300
3.5	0.16	16		9.6	3.15	315
3.6	0.17	17		9.8	3.35	335
3.7	0.18	18		10	3.5	350
3.8	0.2	20		10.2	3.75	375
3.9	0.22	22		10.4	4	400
4	0.25	25		10.6	4.25	425
4.2	0.3	30		10.8	4.5	450
4.4	0.33	33		11	4.75	475
4.5	0.35	35		11.2	5	500
4.6	0.38	38		12	6.5	650

Oval cut diamonds: Slightly more unusual than a round cut, oval cuts retain much the same level of fire and brilliance as a round diamond, because the angles are close to those of the round. The oval shaped diamond was first polished by Lazare Kaplan in the early 1960’s. This diamond shape has 56 facets to reflect the light. The Oval’s ratio of the length to the width should be about 1.5:1

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
4 x 3	0.2	20		8.5 x 6.5	1.5	150
5 x 3	0.25	25		9 x 6	1.75	175
5 x 3.5	0.33	33		9 x 7	2	200
5 x 4	0.4	40		9.5 x 7.5	2.5	250
6 x 4	0.5	50		10 x 8	3	300
6.5 x 4.5	0.65	65		10 x 8.5	3.5	350
7 x 5	0.75	75		11 x 9	4	400
7.5 x 5.5	1	100		11 x 9.5	4.5	450
8 x 6	1.25	125		12 x 10	5	500

Princess cut diamonds:

A modern classic: clean, square lines and beautiful sparkle. This shape is the perfect choice if you prefer a square or rectangular outline with brilliant sparkle. Most rectangular cuts are not as brilliant as the round one, but the princess cut was designed especially to get maximal brilliance from a square cut. Its 76 facets capture the light and accentuates it’s fire and brilliance rather than its luster.
The princess cut is also popular amongst diamond cutters: of all the cuts, it wastes the least of the original crystal.

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
2	0.06	6		4.42	0.35	35
2.25	0.08	8		4.5	0.4	40
2.5	0.1	10		4.75	0.5	50
2.75	0.13	13		5	0.63	63
3	0.15	15		5.25	0.75	75
3.25	0.2	20		5.5	1	100
3.5	0.23	23		6	1.25	125
3.75	0.25	25		7	1.6	160
4	0.3	30		8	2.25	225

Emerald cut diamonds:

The emerald shaped diamond, or Octagonal Cut, is rectangular or square with 48 to 50 facets for optimal brilliance. The clean lines of this classic shape come from step-cutting or parallel line facets. Emerald cut diamonds have oblong facets on each side and around the corners. The usual ratio length- width is 7 to 5.
Larger inclusions are sometimes more visible to the unaided eye, so emerald shaped diamonds usually need to be of higher clarity.

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
4 x 3	0.2	20		8.5 x 6.5	2	200
5 x 3	0.25	25		9 x 7	2.5	250
6 x4	0.5	50		10 x 8	3	300
6.5 x 4.5	0.75	75		11 x 9	4	400
7 x 5	1	100		12 x 10	5	500
8 x 6	1.5	150

Baguette cut diamonds

A relatively small elongated diamond that is rectangular in shape, which accentuates a diamond's lustre, whiteness, and clarity but downplays its fire It has square corners with rows of step-cut facets parallel to the table, which can be unforgiving to the appearance of any imperfections.
Rectangular or oblong diamonds are usually called baguettes, from the French word "baguette". They are similar to emerald cuts, but without the mitred corners which make them octagonal rather than oblong. Tapered baguettes also exist.

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
3 x 1.5	0.05	5		5 x 2.5	0.25	25
3 x 2	0.09	9		5 x 3	0.3	30
3.5 x 2	0.11	11		6 x 2	0.3	30
4 x 2	0.16	16		6 x 3	0.4	40
5 x 2	0.2	20		6 x 4	0.6	60

Pear cut diamonds:

This aesthetically appealing cut stands midway between the round brilliant and the marquise conveying high scintillation factor. This water drop shape is the second most popular diamond shape. The round bottom reflects the light with its 58 facets. Good symmetry is a must for pear-cut diamonds to ensure that light is reflected evenly, especially in the point and 1.5:1 aspect ratio delivers a great appearance and lively diamond.
Beautiful and feminine with a rounded end on one side and a tapering point at the other. It’s lovely as the centre stone in a ring, a pendant or pair of drop earrings.

Milimetres	Carat weight	Points		Milimetres	Carat weight	Points
4 x 2	0.2	20		10 x 7	2	200
5 x 3	0.3	30		12 x 7	2.5	250
6 x 4	0.5	50		12 x 8	3	300
7 x 5	0.75	75		13 x 8	3.5	350
8 x 5	1	100		14 x 8	4	400
9 x 6	1.5	150		15 x 9	5	500

Marquise or Navette cut diamonds: Legend has it that the name of this diamond shape was given because it was shaped like the Marquise of Pompadour’s mouth by the special request of Louis XIV. This diamond cut is tapered towards the extremities displaying a very luminous centre. Cutting the 56 facets is a very precise and difficult job requiring great skill. The